Here's where I put the opinions that I don't think would be appropriate to put on contour.org.
4/8/00
My opinion? WASTE OF TIME. Why, you might ask? Well, in my opinion, the drivetrain isn't up to the task, and I'm not just talking about the transaxle. The forging process in which the piston connecting rods are made does not produce parts that will handle the kind of load a s/c will generate over the long run.
Ok, let's suppose the connecting rods are tough enough to handle the stress. How are you going to get that power to the ground? A Quaife limited slip differential is going to be MANDATORY. Add another $2000 to the total cost, on top of whatever the s/c is going to run you. Ask yourself...is your Contour worth spending $5000-$6000 dollars on for this kind of modification? I love mine, but that money would certainly be better spent on something else, like a car that could handle that much horsepower!
So, let's assume that you've ignored me up to this point and have decided you want to do it anyway. Have you ever experience torque steer in your Contour? I have. And mine is not even an SVT -- I'm probably only pushing 185hp at the crank. Can you image what level of torque steer you are going to encounter with 240+hp? You're in the ditch, my friend..or at least the next lane over =) Now, add wet roads to the equation...
Are you convinced yet?
7/12/01
Ok, so I'm eating major crow here =) Vortech released a supercharger last fall, and it seems to work pretty darn well. I'm still waiting to see how the bottom end holds up over time. Someone has already blown theirs, you know who you are ;-)
4/8/00
Not worth the cash. The stock MAF already flows more air than the engine can pull in at 7500 RPM. So, basically 73mm or 75mm MAF's are something that gets you going faster because your wallet is lighter... The dyno plots on contour.org are proof.
OK, ok, there can be some advantages to having one. You can tweak the output voltages on them for SOME gain, but I've yet to see any quantified numbers from the dyno. And who wants to actually manually tune one of these things for a couple horsepower? Not me.
4/8/00
I really like the KVR carbon fibre pads. Much better than stock and they don't dust NEARLY as much! However, they are terrible in the rain -- they take a good second or so to start grabbing when braking on the freeway in a rain storm.
SVT owners are out of luck for the moment, I don't think they are available yet.
See... I can say nice things, too!
I also really like the KVR cross-drilled rotors. I've had them for a year now and I've not experienced any cracking. Brake performance is outstanding.
4/17/00
After a couple weeks with the KVR pads, I have to say they are excellent! I whole-heartedly recommend these.
MAINTENANCE TIP: The next time you have the front wheels off, make sure your calipers are floating on the guide pins properly. This can cause bad things, like poor brake response. Use a black, moly-lithium grease to lubricate them if necessary.
Also make sure that the spring clips are put on correctly -- they should be pushing against the anchor plate on top and bottom and the brake pad in the middle.
8/13/00
Well, after three months of using the KVR pads with my KVR-acquired Eurorotors, they warped. Great. Where the heck do I get drilled rotors turned??? Oh well, back to the stock rotors for now. I'm less than thrilled about this whole thing. I can't really recommend the Eurorotors now, especially after hearing so many other complaints of warpage.
11/10/00
I'm considering getting the BAT big brake upgrade. This allows you to use SVT-size rotors with your existing calipers. Looks like a deal to me. I'll also be getting the stainless steel brake lines.
7/12/01
I've had the BAT big brake kit 'C' for 3 months now, and I like it a lot!!! The Mintex A/F pads it comes with are much, much better than the KVR pads, IMHO. The KVR's were just plain scary on a wet freeway. Can you say no brakes for a couple seconds? Eek. I got the stainless lines for the front at the same time, and man is that brake pedal firm now! Recommended!!! I trashed the KVR cross-drilled rotors, they were paperweights.
4/8/00
Wow, these cars really benefit from a more open, freer flowing exhaust! 160hp at the wheels on a non-SVT is attainable with a custom 2.25" quasi-dual exhaust. See Ray McNairy's dyno plots.
10/19/00
After seeing the y-pipe/cat removed from my car, it really sank in as to just how restrictive this thing is. A 180 degree bend, restrictive cat, and then a 2" piece to the flange. Yuck!!! I got the SHO-Shop Y-pipe to replace it. We'll see how much of a difference that makes.
11/10/00
WOW!!! The SHO-Shop y-pipe is a great mod! I've got many more horsepower, it sounds great, and looks wonderful, too. You definitely need a quieter exhaust system, this thing really makes it so much louder! I've got a stock SVT Exhaust and it is quite a bit louder with the y-pipe on. You certainly wouldn't want a resonator-less exhaust with it.
4/8/00
Of course, you'll have to open up the induction as well. An SVT airbox or KKM True-Rev induction system works very well. I've used both and currently have the SVT airbox. I believe the airbox works better for city driving, since the engine would pulling in hot engine-bay air most of the time with the KKM True-Rev.
4/17/00
Looking at my mileage records, it does appear that I lost 0.5mpg when I switched to the SVT airbox, so I'm sure there is some more useable power there with the True-Rev. Maybe I would fare better with the SVT version of the True-Rev now that I have the SVT fender inlet. We'll see...
4/27/00
You know, I bet I don't see as much difference in the SVT airbox and KKM True-Rev because I still have a 2" exhaust system. Opening that baby up will likely make the True-Rev more worthwhile for me. YMMV.
7/12/01
KKM is probably better, haven't seen that much better mileage with the SVT airbox and SVT exhaust. I may put the KKM back on at some point to see the difference.
4/18/00
Perhaps the most overlooked mod? It's in my top 3 mods (with induction and exhaust.) You won't believe how much faster the engine spools up! The stock harmonic balancer/pulley is HEAVY! I've had it installed for over 3 months now, with no problems whatsoever. Gas mileage for city has gone up noticeably, but not really for highway driving. That's great for me, since I do mostly city driving.
C'mon, it is an inexpensive mod! You'll love it!
7/12/01
There's been much discussion about a UDP on the CEG forums. The "pros" are saying that a harmonic balancer is necessary, and a UDP certainly eliminates that. I haven't taken mine off and I haven't experienced any bottom end failures, but I'll no longer recommend this mod to others.
4/18/00
If you have a 95-97 Contour, the motor mounts are worth upgrading to SVT ones. Especially you 95 owners. The mounts are shot on my 95 SE, I'll be replacing those shortly. The SVT units are much stiffer and have considerably more rubber material in them. The front mount on the earlier models has very little material in the mount. The rear has a tendency to tear apart (mine has.)
9/8/00
I have had the SVT motor mounts on for a couple weeks now, and they are a tremendous improvement! The car no longer bucks violently when lifting off the gas and reapplying. Transmitted vibrations are more prevalent, but only noticeably at idle. If you have a 95-97, this upgrade is highly recommended!
11/10/00
This just makes the car that much better! To be able to nail the throttle in corners and come out accelerating instead of spinning is wonderful. Makes a competent car an incredible car. Not a cheap mod, but if you are in for tranny work, might as well.
7/12/01
Definitely still highly recommended, especially now that you can pick one up for $850!